The skins are put into process; are chrome tanned and dried (crusted) within the next three weeks. Skins are then sorted and you are called with our recommendation as to colors best suited for your skins. After you choose the color, the skins are dyed – usually completed within the next two to three weeks. We believe that, in this way, we can maximize the value of each skin while helping you to understand what can be done to improve skin quality.
Tanning and dying are both done in wooden drums and great care is taken that the tanning and coloring chemicals penetrate the skin thoroughly and are applied consistently from batch to batch. The skins are toggle dried (stretched and dried) after coloring, then softened in large tumble mills after which finish is applied. The finish used contains no dye and is applied simply to provide protection to the ostrich leather, and to give it its shine and feel. Variations in luster and feel are possible as long as ample communication and sampling is done so that you and the tannery understand exactly what is requested.
Shipping is done by UPS following payment for the leather processing and shipping charges.
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| Receiving | Inspecting | Fleshing | Drums |
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| Toggle | Staging | Finishing | Buffing |
Turn around time for ostrich leather is five to six weeks.
Other leathers vary because of batch sizing. Contact us at (515) 433-0176 for a time frame.
Upon receiving a shipment of skins, we fill out a "receiving document" that describes the condition of the skins as we see them. This helps us focus on quality with you and helps you realize how the condition of the skins could be improved so that we can do our best work as well. Each skin is identified with an attached number that follows the skin through the whole process. A receiving document, along with a color chart, is mailed to you at the start of this process.
Some of the critical skin defects that you hope to avoid are cuts, bruises, excess fat, poor cure, bacteria damage, and poor pattern. The following is a general description that will aid you in avoiding the creation of these defects in your skins and will give you quality ostrich leather.
It is important that the ostrich be raised in conditions that will avoid the development of feather pecking. Overcrowding in pens seems to be the biggest contribution. The effects of feather pecking can be sunburn, leaving a dark or scarred area of the skin; flat quills because the large feather is removed and the quill healed over; and discoloration from bruising or treatment with medication. Feather pecking usually displays defects in the skin in more than one quadrant (almost always in quadrants three and four), the areas on both sides of the tail which is an important cutting area for any ostrich leather user. These defects will usually reduce the value of your skin to a number three.
When the birds are brought to the slaughter house, overcrowding in the trailer can cause skin damage when birds bang themselves against the trailer walls, or when one tries to squat down and is stepped on by the others. Adequate space and sectioning in the trailer will help this problem.
When the bird is in the slaughter facility and is put down, care must be taken that it does not have the opportunity to kick and thrash. This will cause bruising to the skin. Using carbon dioxide seems to be the most tranquil way of putting down the ostrich. In any event, kill box must be narrow to prevent the body from being slammed into the sides from the kicking; or the carcass can be suspended from the legs or in a net until the kicking stops. Once able to approach the carcass, stick it just at the base of the neck, where the heart is, and cut off the head to bleed the bird out. It is best at this stage to have the carcass hanging so as not to get blood on the skin or feathers.
Removing feathers
Feathers must be plucked within 20 minutes of the kill. During this time, the quills will heal and swell when the feather is plucked, resulting in a high pointy quill in the leather. Care must be taken to pull the feathers in the general direction that they would lay, as pulling against the grain can cause subsequent holes.
If the bird has been dead for some time, get the carcass off the ground, and shear the feathers rather than pluck them. The quills will be flat in any event as the time is past for them to swell and heal shut. The tannery can dissolve the feather root and hopefully minimize the holes at the quill. Plucking too long after the death of the bird will cause holes in the leather. Shearing can be done with a scissors, or with a shear coarse enough to allow the cutting edges to reach the feather. The feather root will protrude from the skin about ¼ inch after shearing. Take care not to cut the skin with the shears or scissors.
During colder months, frozen hides can be placed in a double walled paper bag, this bag placed in a heavy plastic bag, then boxed with plenty of newspapers or "peanuts" for insulation.
In summer months and/or to reduce shipping costs, thaw the skin in salt brine and let drain before shipping.
TO MAKE THE SALT BRINE:
Recommended Care of Deer and Elk Skins in Preparation for Tanning?
Sometimes,
in discussing care of skins where no care has taken place before, one takes
what one can get. The skins
should not be permitted to lay on the floor in a pile for extended periods.
Sometimes skins lay till the day’s kill is completed.
The first skins removed are of no value by that time, and all will be
effected with some bacteria damage. At
the very least, the skins, once removed from the animal, should be placed on a
slanted surface so that the fluid can drain from the skins(s).
Each skin should be laid hair down, and the flesh side salted
generously, making sure all edges are covered.
The next skin can be placed on top of the first, salted as before. Etc.
Clean skins can be salted and frozen, or simply frozen immediately.
Ideally,
the skin, when removed, will be kept clean and be placed in a cold salt brine
(water with as much salt as can be dissolved).
This will cool down the skin, wash
any blood and other fluids out of the hair, and prevent bacteria from working
on the skin. Prepare a slanted
surface using plywood propped up with a block so that water will drain.
Spread salt on this surface. Once the slaughter is completed, drain the
skins over a beam. Once drained,
place the first skin on the bed of salt flesh side up, and salt the flesh side
generously. Place the next skin
on top of the first, salt as before, etc.
The skins will drain for a day or two.
Once draining has slowed, shake the excess salt from the skin, package
in feed bags, then in plastic, then box, and send to the tannery.
Frozen
skins are fine, and often skins are frozen after they are salted.
This is a good way to take care of them, realizing that the skins thaw
in transit to the tannery, and usually arrive in a plastic bag that is full of
fluid, or in a box that has leaked all over the post office or the UPS truck.
In either case, bacteria camage can be the result, not to mention the
interesting calls to the tannery from the delivery service.
If the skins are frozen, ship them that way, but be sure that the skins
are securely wrapped in several heavy garbage plastic bags.
Do not hesitate to call Specialty Leather (515) 433-0176. We will be happy to work with you and help with the answers to your questions.